On the Move Again

We’ll be offline again for maybe a week or two. We’ve been here at the edge of civilization in the capital of the Marquesas for two weeks and it starts to feel crowded and noisy. We plan to make our way around the island of Nuku Hiva, starting tomorrow with a short tack up the South coast to Controller Bay and its little village of Taipivai in the valley of the million coconuts. There we should be able to fill our water tanks with good water there on the beach, the one from the taps here on the pier is said to be not for human consumption due to the many goats and pigs calling the valleys home around the town.

From there we plan to head just a little more into the winds and sail up the East Coast to visit the couple bays along the North Coast, which should be all peaceful and protected from the Southerly swells that have made the anchorage here quite uncomfortable. We went to do some provisioning in the local store today. The prices of things are astronomical, but we did manage to get some sardines for 50c a can, a chunk of Gruyere cheese for $3, eggs and garlic. On the market at the pier we got another four of those really delicious cooking bananas. Their skin is a bright orange and the fruit inside glooms in saffron yellow. They are of a delicious buttery consistency and when fried become heavenly food for the gods!

I am working on a report of the crossing from Hawaii, I just copied the daily noon positions off the GPS and will pin them onto a Google Earth grab of the stretch of ocean we crossed. After a week or so out, once I was sufficiently used to the shaking to be able to gather my thoughts accordingly, I started to record voice memos on my smart phone at the beginnings of my night shift. I will go through those and see if parts are worth transcribing to give a little more detailed account of what happened out there. I find it pretty difficult to write about offshore sailing. The books and stories you usually read are mostly artificially enhanced, be it towards the exciting or towards the thrilling, while the actual reality is hard to capture, floating between a sweet monotony, lots of contemplation of superb beauty, quite a bit of suspense in complete vulnerability, moments of extreme tension, stretches of simple feisty fear and much much more. We’ll give it a try!

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